Winter in the Old City

A boy on the Yamuna. Photo: Siddharth Jain

A boy on the Yamuna. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Winter comes in Delhi and the city’s tone changes. The mood is usually sombre, the sky is grey, shrouded under fog. From the ongoing tradition of Kabootar Bazi (pigeon racing) to the calm of Yamuna Ghat, Siddharth Jain photographs Old Delhi in the coldest months.

- Siddharth Jain

Winter comes in Delhi and the city’s tone changes. The mood is usually sombre, the sky is grey, shrouded under fog. Folks seldom leave their homes, and those who do, rush to finish their work quickly and return to their warm abodes. 

I had stayed home for most of 2020, and six months passed before I embarked on any serious photography. A few outings here and there, but nothing concrete. Delhi’s winter, however, provided a sudden and intense urge to photograph. With many staying home, I felt free to walk more openly in the streets

Photography means taking a lot of chances, accepting the disappointments of coming back empty-handed, and yet, staying positive in anticipation of the next best frame. With an intention to be a bit bolder and curious, I did some more pointed research on the subjects I wanted to capture this winter in Delhi.

I had heard fleetingly about Kabootar Bazi, the keeping and competitive racing of pigeons in Old Delhi. The practice is still very much in existence. Perhaps it was an old British tradition; trade routes still exist between Uttar Pradesh to Delhi and pigeons are carried from one state to the other. I was a little sceptical about taking images in the old Kabootar (pigeon) Market area after I first discovered it, but after hanging around for a few hours, I finally broke ice and managed to take pictures.

The Yamuna Ghat area was more surprising for me. I was expecting it to be dirty and filthy, but instead found a space of calmness and old-world charm. The birds were relatively free and it was quite the opposite to what I saw at the Kabootar Market.

The streets of Old Delhi always have been busy and mesmerising.  Both night and day gives one an equal chance to experience the old quarters. I prefer night at times when the streets become relaxed after a long day at work—it’s a time that one can see a lot more than what meets the eye.

These images provide a glimpse of life going on in Old Delhi, from this strange winter of discontent.

A busy street in Old Delhi. Photo: Siddharth Jain

A busy street in Old Delhi. Photo: Siddharth Jain

A pigeon seller. Photo: Siddharth Jain

A pigeon seller. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Transaction. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Transaction. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Kabootar Bazaar. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Kabootar Bazaar. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Live pigeons. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Live pigeons. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Jama Masjid. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Jama Masjid. Photo: Siddharth Jain

The bride comes home. Photo: Siddharth Jain

The bride comes home. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Spice Market, Chawri Bazaar. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Spice Market, Chawri Bazaar. Photo: Siddharth Jain

A winter night in Old Delhi. Photo: Siddharth Jain

A winter night in Old Delhi. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Avians on the Yamuna. Photo: Siddharth Jain

Avians on the Yamuna. Photo: Siddharth Jain

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Siddharth Jain is a documentary photographer covering stories of human interest. Based in New Delhi, India, his work can be seen at www.siddharthjain.co.in. You can find him on Medium: @SiddharthJainIndia, Facebook: Dispatches by Siddharth and Instagram: @dispatches.by.siddharth.

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